I have a 2-year-old Lab/Collie mix, around 50 lbs.
We have a 4.5 ft high vinyl fence lined with wire all the way to the ground, but he still digs underneath it and has even managed to fit his body under it once.
What can I do to stop this digging? About a year ago, I tried cayenne pepper, but I needed massive amounts to cover the fence, and it did nothing to deter him.
Is there anything I can put in the dirt around the fence to deter the digging? We have about 3/4 of an acre fenced-in, so I need a cost-effective solution for a large area. Thank you!
Do you think he isn’t challenged enough? Working dogs are often mentally tired, which makes them less likely to do mischief. Physical exhaustion is nearly impossible, therefore I’m not suggesting taking him for longer walks or running. I’m saying make him responsible for things around the house (like putting away his toys or closing the door), take him to training or sports courses, play puzzles, and so on.
He likely isn’t challenged enough, and I struggle with that because he has a lot of issues.
We can’t enroll him in any group classes or daycare because he’s so reactive that he’s not welcome in any. He’s not extremely food motivated, so it’s hard to keep him interested in puzzle balls. We have the rolling ball feeder, the hard green grass bowl, several spiral bowls, and the toy where he paws the sliding doors to get treats. None of these occupy him for long. We’ve tried switching foods to something tastier, and while smearing liverwurst or peanut butter works for a bit, it doesn’t last long.
He has a lot of issues and is on Trazodone and Prozac daily for his anxiety. We’ve been working on his reactivity in a group class for about three months now.
I do little training sessions with him, reinforcing sit, down, touch, and leave it, which he aces every time. We do this in different rooms of the house. I never thought about training him to actually do a task. Would something like that help?
Assigning him a specific task can be beneficial, especially if he is solely responsible and you genuinely appreciate his efforts (nothing beats genuine appreciation, except maybe a sausage!). However, if you’ve only covered the basics, there’s still a lot of fun stuff to explore. For example, you could try Karen Overall’s relaxation protocol or something from Kikopup, like the upside-down settle. If he’s high-strung, being asked to be calm will require a lot of effort. The Overall protocol is very clear and can help you understand how to set up a training session. It’s usually better to do three 5-minute sessions rather than one 15-minute session.
Besides useful things, you can also explore random tricks. Just Google ‘fun dog tricks’ or something similar, and you’ll find some great ideas. YouTube is also a fantastic resource. Definitely look into clicker training. “Don’t Shoot the Dog” is a great book to help you think like a trainer. Alternatively, you can try to find a sport that offers private lessons. There are many options out there, but they can be expensive and hard to find depending on where you live.
How is he reacting to the class? For reactivity, I’ve personally seen wonderful results with the BAT method, which is a one-on-one training that helps many dogs tolerate their triggers and choose more acceptable ways to cope with them. I’ve also heard great things about “Click to Calm,” though I’m less confident in its widespread effectiveness. Hopefully, your class will bring some results as well! Make sure to take plenty of time to practice whatever you learn in the class!
He does pretty well in the reactivity class, but it’s easy for him to backslide, which can be frustrating. The class is helpful, but translating it to real life with all the different triggers can be challenging.
In the class, there are about 12 dogs and handlers at opposite ends of a large parking lot, all armed with high-value treats. We inch closer to each other and treat the dogs every time they look at each other. The closest he’s gotten is about 30 feet away, but if any dog makes an unexpected move, we back up another 30 feet. This setup is just for dogs, so applying it to walks where he’s reactive to people, cars, and other dogs, and where we can’t control how quickly they approach, makes it very difficult to work on.
I’m definitely going to look into some of those tricks; they might help him a lot.
Whoa, 12 dogs is a lot! If one reacts, it can set off a chain reaction. Is your instructor teaching you to ‘read’ your dog and recognize when he’s still comfortable? Like this: image and the pictures in this article?
At home, don’t feel bad if your walks take a long time but don’t cover much distance. Addressing reactivity is more important than the walk itself. You can practice at home with people and cars just like you do with dogs in the training course. You just need a volunteer to be the person or drive the car you’re working with. Maybe ask a neighbor with a dog, they might not mind standing around or driving in circles for 10 minutes every other day, and their presence might be ‘strange’ enough to trigger a reaction from your dog.
It’s really a pretty well-run class; everyone is obliged to attend a training prior (without their dogs) to learn about reactivity, the dog’s body language (as shown in the image you posted), and how conditioning works in general. The trainer will then stick by your side for the first lesson to help you learn your unique dog’s cues, including when to treat and how to retreat in a good manner. I was shocked; everyone who attends does quite well.
Okay, with a prep class, I understand. I was asking because, sadly, there are many persons out there who call themselves trainers but lack the necessary background or education. Sounds like you’ve found an excellent one! Just keep training there, and if you’ve been there for around 6 months and still haven’t seen the results you desire, ask your trainer if they offer private sessions or reactivity walks. Definitely give it a few months before reviewing; this stuff takes time!
Our agility teacher offers private lessons and structures classes so only one dog is out at a time. The other dogs stay in their owners’ cars or in crates in another room. We had a very reactive dog in one class (so reactive that he nipped at people; he got my shoe once), and I admired how she handled it.
She reassured the owner repeatedly that her dog was welcome and that no one was upset by him. She even mentioned that if the owner wanted to compete, there would only be one dog in the ring at a time.
So, there are ways to engage him without the stress of a class. Agility is both mentally and physically challenging, and for beginner dogs, there are many skills to work on at home in the yard that don’t require expensive equipment. We started with a board, a cardboard box, and an upside-down food bowl. I bought a yoga mat at a thrift store for $2 and cut it up to make non-skid surfaces.
What breed, and how old? Your dog appears to have some troubles; has this always been the case? You mention that you follow basic commands; perhaps you can expand on that with additional obedience training; this will also assist with boredom and impulsivity. It’s fine if you’re not food-motivated; you can still reward with play or praise. Based on what you’ve written, I believe your dog would have more engagement with you and will be more calm if you establish a set of rules, such as restricting outdoor or playtime as a reward for success.
He is two years old, and we have had him since he was a puppy. His behavioral difficulties began around four months ago. For the longest time, he was so stressed up that he couldn’t learn new feats easily. Since he’s been on the Prozac, his learning has improved significantly, and you’re correct that I should increase the complexity of his skills. For example, it took him months to learn Down before taking Prozac. After the Prozac, he learned to leave it in a few days. Do you have any suggestions for more difficult tricks that advance way beyond what we already have? (Sit, down, touch, or leave it)
When training Sit and Down, I always include “Up” as well. It’s very useful for grooming or check-ups. Next, you can teach your dog to stay, either with an extra command or by combining it with sit and adding a release command like “Go,” “Start,” or “Relax.” Basic recall (come), heel (first with a leash, then without), and boundary training are great for starters. Additionally, touch training is excellent for getting your dog to interact and focus.
I can’t imagine how severe your dog’s anxiety must be to impact training so significantly, but it sounds very unusual. All the best with it. Remember to be consistent with your training sessions and rules, as your dog’s behavior will benefit from that consistency.
Does your dog enjoy tug or fetch? These human-led games can be a great way to expend both physical and mental energy.
For tug, I taught my dog “out,” which means she immediately drops the rope and waits. Of course, I let her win sometimes, too. Between “matches” of tug, I ask her to perform tricks from her repertoire to keep her mentally engaged and listening to me. The same goes for fetch before I throw the ball, she has to show off some cool moves.