I’m curious as to what, if anything, I should reply. I attempt to defuse the situation, move him away, and grab his attention before it ever begins since I find it embarrassing, but he always goes for the other dogs. He doesn’t like dogs in his grill for very long, but he’s alright off leash. High-value treats are something I haven’t tried yet.
He doesn’t do it with my spouse, so I think it’s either 1. Protecting me, or 2. Frustration.
How should I respond, or not respond, to help him become more at ease with a leash? It goes without saying that I don’t want anyone to get wounded, including myself, he barked and lunged at me today, almost breaking my knee with his teeth.
My behaviorist has also confirmed that when he lunges and barks, he has already gone above a threshold and that the battle is lost. You just need to get him out of there as quickly as possible. Right now, there’s nothing he can learn. Keep him from practicing this repeatedly.
Work below the threshold; each dog’s threshold will vary. Then, catch his attention by using the trigger to create more distance. With time, you will become closer (months). Look up DMT, LAT, and clicker training.
The reason, whether it is resource guarding, fear, aggressiveness, or frustration, really doesn’t matter for the training. The training remains the same: your friend is distant.
That’s great advice! Our biggest challenge is that we live near a busy multi-use trail. It’s hard to avoid triggers when we have to walk there three times a day. We try to stay as far to the side as possible, but it’s often not enough.
I try to use commands like “leave it” when he gets excited, but it doesn’t always work. He’ll dart across the path to reach the other dog and bark in frustration.
It’s helpful to know that once he reaches a certain level of excitement, it’s difficult to stop him. I’ve been trying to sit him down or stop the behavior before we get closer to the trigger, but I see now that this might not be the best approach.
The best approach is to avoid situations that could trigger your dog’s reactivity. If you find yourself in a situation where your dog is already overstimulated and not responding to commands, the safest option is to create distance.
I think of my dog’s threshold as a line between him and potential triggers. If I see a trigger, I quickly distract him with treats or create space between us.
If you find yourself in a situation where your dog is reacting and not responding to training, it’s best to simply leave the area. This isn’t the time for training. Instead, learn from the experience and avoid similar situations in the future. Pay attention to what triggers your dog and practice de-conditioning techniques before they reach a full reactive state.
As a responsible dog owner, it’s important to be aware of potential triggers or threats in your surroundings, just like you would with a child. I often see people walking their dogs while distracted by their phones, which can be dangerous.
While everyone has their own style, it’s worth considering how your behavior might affect your dog’s safety.
My dog isn’t motivated by treats outside, but she might go for cheese. She’s not reactive but has a strong desire to socialize with everyone she meets.
Once she had good recall indoors, we started practicing outside. I’d let her off-leash in a small wooded area near our house and watch for people approaching. Before she saw them, I’d call her and have her do a sit/stay.
Surprisingly, when we’re training, she’s completely focused on me and ignores everything else. While this worked for my dog, who’s very praise-oriented, it might not be the best approach for all dogs, especially those more motivated by food.